Bultarra lamb is converting Sydneysiders, writes Olivia Riordan.

An ancestral stream of the Murray River flows through Robert Meares's family farm. Alongside, there are about 1 million saltbush plants that help reduce the crippling effects of salinity.

It is almost 30 years since Meares decided to plant the perennial native, to revive both the dying water course and the family lamb business. Now working alongside his twin children, his environmental initiative has paid off and he has received praise from gourmets for the family's Bultarra Saltbush Lamb.